I awoke with a desire to create, moisture in the air, and a yearning for beauty. I created the image below after an epiphanous dream that I believe was inspired by reading a surfing excerpt from Daniel Duane's A Surfer's Year on the California Coast shortly before bed.
"I thought how, with the peeling wave as an ideal of perfection, the surfer's object of passion becomes the very essence of ephemerality-not a thing to be owned or a goal to be attained but rather a fleeting state to inhabit. So much more of my time, after all, passed in the dreaming and searching than in the actual riding of waves; so much more time spent driving the coast and floating between sets. Of a whole year of devotion, probably no more than a day was spent truly on my feet and surfing, so I couldn't view such a moment as this without an ardent, frustrated desire, a near-religious craving for wholeness. Unlike so many other passions: while on might, I suppose, wish for a bloom to remain in blossom, for a ripening grape to hang always on the vine-yearnings John Keats made his own, for fleeting beauty and youth, the understandably hopeless hope that we might freeze our world's better moments-the wave's plenitude is rather in the peeling of the petal, the very motion of the falling fruit."
― Daniel Duane, Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast (p.99)”
― Daniel Duane, Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast (p.99)”
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